| Author | Message | ||
     Dmaivn Senior Member Username: Dmaivn Post Number: 2991 Registered: 07-2003  Rating: N/A |
Yes, that is why it is called chip budding. The scion is a chip. The main problem of this method is that you will need pretty much same diameter and perfect cuts to align the chip perfectly into the host socket. If this is not done, the cambium bridge that grows later will be very weak. Having the wood chip makes the union weak for the first 6 months until the size of the new wood growth becomes thick enough. | ||
| Raman_rrs New member Username: Raman_rrs Post Number: 1 Registered: 07-2009 Rating: N/A |
In Case of Chip budding is it necessary to have a scion with little wood unlike in the case of T budding where scion is completely without hardwood. | ||
| Rosemeadow Senior Member Username: Rosemeadow Post Number: 587 Registered: 01-2008 Rating: N/A |
Thanks Brownthumbs, thats good news as I am a bit lasy. There is enough to do with mowing, weeding, deadheading etc, without worrying about that. Luckily I haven't had to water much this year, yet. | ||
| Brownthumbs Intermediate Member Username: Brownthumbs Post Number: 127 Registered: 01-2008 Rating: N/A |
nah...I wouldn't advocate that...only because it's a pain in the bottom and not realy sustainable...and to be truly effective you would need to do it after EVERY cut you make. More importantly...for you it's too late. I was only thinking for Alee cause they are in a somewhat unique position of having new plants for the first time. I made my comments because there are "some rootstock varieties" that are so full of mosaic virus that they are no longer viable in the production of roses and she might be in a position with a little bit of care to get clean plants in the first place and keep them that way. Your spotting on the leaves of the fairy sounds more like the effects of spider mite than mv Hope thats of some help. | ||
| Rosemeadow Senior Member Username: Rosemeadow Post Number: 580 Registered: 01-2008 Rating: N/A |
So Brownthumbs when I walk around and cutting blooms, deadheading or cutting dead wood I should dip my scecateurs each time I go to a new rose bush ? I have heard this said before but I never got around to doing it. I am not sure if my Fairy weeper has Mosiac Virus as I noticed some speckling on some of its leaves once. Seems to be very healthy though and I haven't really noticed this on the leaves since, not that I have gone looking for it. Does this virus do any harm other then speckling the leaves ? Hi Ozeboy. I will give your off casts a home if you are prepared to keep them till winter, cut them right back and post them up to me. I will really understand if you would rather give them to someone local or burn them etc. | ||
| Ozeboy Senior Member Username: Ozeboy Post Number: 491 Registered: 03-2007 Rating: N/A |
Brownthumbs, I managed to get about 50 Fortunia cuttings into pots as I wanted to move them when rooted. They did suffer a lot of fungus and made me think they are better in a dryer climate. Mulyiflora seemed best as its unusual not to get close to 100% rooted. Both were exposed to a lot of neglect due to grandchildren and a building project. I have got to the stage where I don't spray at all anymore and so sick and tired of rose varieties that can't grow without coddling. Anything high maintainence is going, hope I have some left but if not then will have to buy in something else as HT's don't seem to fit into most Australian's lifestyle any more. | ||
| Alee Intermediate Member Username: Alee Post Number: 155 Registered: 02-2008 Rating: N/A |
Brownthumbs, Thanks for the good advise. I donno if there are any viruses or any diseases on my plants. I have had a phytosanitory certificate for all my plants. Even for the Fortuniana plants. I got my Fortuniana from Swiss Rose Garden in Perth. Fortuniana is not growing well in here. I have decided that I am going to use local rose as rootstock. | ||
| Brownthumbs Intermediate Member Username: Brownthumbs Post Number: 125 Registered: 01-2008 Rating: N/A |
Alee..technically yes...you can split...but you'd be nuts to do it. Either come up with the $$ for the plants you want or as I think you are doing invest in the one good plant as your "mother plant"...feed it...water it...talk to it.....play music to it and build it up to take cuttings off it next(this)winter.....get successful at taking/striking and growing on cuttings as this will provide you with thousands of new bushes within a couple of years. Now the other point I would make...without trying to sound alarmist or like a complete wally is for you to watch your "nursery hygene"...that is...you seem to be buying plants and stock from all over the place (which is great...don't get me wrong) but you do risk bringing virus and disease into your "nursery" as do ALL gardeners by the way when we purchase plants here and there. Now for most of us it doesn't really matter....but because your new and getting stuck into it you have the chance to be selective and start things off on the right foot. An example of this would be mosaic virus...I'll leave it to others to tell you what it is...but in effect..it's not too much more than a pain in the backside. Now it is transmitted via budding knives secc'ys etc...insects and soil are not vectors...so....lets say you've bought in clean bushes here and there and then "dirty" stocks from there and you muck around with budding.....whammo...you've infected the bloody lot. Still not a big drama...but easily avoided buy dipping all your cuttting gear in bleach each time you do some cutting. Like I said...my comments are intended to point you in the right direction not to take the shine off your enthusiasm. By the way...where did you get your fortuniana cuttings from?... | ||
| Alee Intermediate Member Username: Alee Post Number: 150 Registered: 02-2008 Rating: N/A |
I made a cut so that it had one cane and one root piece(some of them had 3-4 big roots) | ||
| Roseman Senior Member Username: Roseman Post Number: 423 Registered: 05-2004  Rating: N/A |
Alee, when you say division, did you cut the plants down the middle and did they have 2 buds. They may not rot if not over watered and I think that they would callus, but ever so slowly. If the canina rootstock is from seedlings they might not survive, this only my opinion, roseman. | ||
| Alee Intermediate Member Username: Alee Post Number: 149 Registered: 02-2008 Rating: N/A |
Do you think the open wound of the roots may rot or cause dehydration? | ||
| Alee Intermediate Member Username: Alee Post Number: 147 Registered: 02-2008 Rating: N/A |
Roseman, I've found out that they scan the post in here. I have tried splitting (division) on some of the bare root roses that I received. Will let you all know how it does. | ||
| Alee Intermediate Member Username: Alee Post Number: 122 Registered: 02-2008 Rating: N/A |
Roseman, I'll check which size envelops the postman delivers. Dao, I think your idea would work. I'll try to check how many days it take normal post to reach Maldives from Australia. | ||
| Dmaivn Senior Member Username: Dmaivn Post Number: 2902 Registered: 07-2003 Rating: N/A |
By picking very slim stems, the rooting chance is actually much better. Therefore tiny multiflora stems should fit in the mail and would root very well. Perhaps get it sent to where you work would be better. A large A4 size envelop should disguise the cuttings unless they scan them through x-ray or ultrasound. I think we can sterilise the cuttings with bleach then send them. They won't rot within 7 days. | ||
| Roseman Senior Member Username: Roseman Post Number: 419 Registered: 05-2004 Rating: N/A |
Alee,up to what size envelopes will the postman deliver to you, we have small padded bags that might get straight to you. | ||
| Alee Intermediate Member Username: Alee Post Number: 121 Registered: 02-2008 Rating: N/A |
Dao, I had an Iceberg. It didn't survive at my balcony. Maybe it will surely do better in a cooler shadier place than my balcony. I think our pink rose will be a perfect candidate for rootstock. I once emptied a dead pink rose pot and it had a very well formed root ball. The local pink rose thrives very well in our climate. I have checked with our agriculture department. They said they would'nt allow any part of a plant to be brought in without a phytosanitary certificate. Not even leaf-less stems. I don't know how they'll treat if it is posted to me. I guess it will be the same procedure. Most of the time we have to go to the post office to collect the items sent by post. And we have to open it for them to inspect it. I mean even the small parcels. The post man delivers only mail and documents. So if you want to post me some cuttings it should look like mail to them. | ||
| Dmaivn Senior Member Username: Dmaivn Post Number: 2901 Registered: 07-2003 Rating: N/A |
Alee, try Iceberg if you have it. It's a good host. However as you are in a tropical country, it's hard to predict. You just have to use any rose that can cope with the heat and humidity at your place. As you grow them on a balcony, you have another big problem that is the heat radiation at night from the bricks and concrete. Roses like to get a temperature gap between night and day. This heat radiation from bricks is a major support for spider mites and blackspot to attack the rose leaves. Some one told me that recently people in the South of Vietnam buy potted roses from the high mountain for their new year. These roses eventually die after 3 months in Saigon where the temperature and humidity are like what you have at your place. The temperature is always between 27C - 32C with very high humidity in Saigon approaching Dec-Jan (coolest period of the year). Have you tried asking some one to send you mature cuttings of multiflora so you can root them? I think you get a good chance growing multiflora from mature cuttings. There are a few strains of Multiflora in Australia. One is thornless and slim with smooth leaves. The other is very thick and the leaves are very coarse. I notice that the strain with coarse leaves is very resistant to blackspot. That could be the one you need. I had both types but the coarse strain is infected with mosaic virus. So it's useless. Some one else here may have a clean copy of it. The other strain is very susceptible to blackspot and powdery mildew. How hard is the custom at your location? Will they let you get leaf-less cuttings of roses through the post? | ||
| Alee Intermediate Member Username: Alee Post Number: 120 Registered: 02-2008 Rating: N/A |
Dao, at the moment I am budding on the bush. I had a Multiflora Cathayensis and Fortuniana. They don't seem to grow very well. They had very thin stems and had poor growth. I am busy collecting local pink rose to use it as rootstock. I am hoping to first grow them, so that I have enough rootstock or bushes to do the budding. | ||
| Rosemeadow Senior Member Username: Rosemeadow Post Number: 553 Registered: 01-2008 Rating: N/A |
I found this very interesting, thanks guys. | ||
| Dmaivn Senior Member Username: Dmaivn Post Number: 2899 Registered: 07-2003 Rating: N/A |
Alee, the best bet is to multiply roses by budding. You can use any rose as a the rootstock provided that it roots well. I cannot see anything that roots better than multiflora. So the first task is to get a multiflora bush going. I understand that you do not have a winter there. That's a problem because it's hard to root the rootstock and get it to grow vigorously enough to get sufficient sap flow for high quality budding. I your case I think you can employ 1/ Budding on the bush. You bud the rose then root the cuttings later. 2/ Do chip budding. It will work with less than ideal sap flow but it will produce weaker grafts. You mentioned that you have a few successful grafts at this moment. You soon need to look at the quality of the grafts. It's easy to get a graft growing but the quality will be a problem. I notice that I did not get good quality in my first year. I later found that top quality grafts only come in ideal climate condition and the use of young stock and budwood. | ||
| Alee Intermediate Member Username: Alee Post Number: 119 Registered: 02-2008 Rating: N/A |
Thanks Simon. I'm just a beginner. I have got 3 sucessful buds, out of 7. I'm trying to get local rose to use it as rootstock. There are some local rose at a government office and I've talked with them and they've agreed to let me do air layering on some next weekend. I've found that airlayering works best for our local roses. I think I'll try dividing a bare root to see if it works for me. | ||
| Tasv Member Username: Tasv Post Number: 48 Registered: 08-2008 Rating: N/A |
How did your budding efforts go Alee? You could potentially increase the number of each plant dramatically by budding and your last effort looked pretty good  On dividing the bare-root rose... if you did it during winter during the dormant period you would stand the best chance of success. I think the nature of most grafted roses, however, do not readily lend themselves to this form of propagation. A grafted rose generally has a single trunk onto which the bud was grafted. To do this you would need to split the trunk to ensure both sides received some roots. This might be harder to do than it sounds too, especially if the parent plant is fairly mature. This method lends itself very well to non-grafted, own root roses because they generally branch from below ground level anyway and have roots coming from multiple places from a swollen base. If it is so difficult getting roses in the Maldives I would be hesitant in doing this and would limit my efforts to more reliable and proven methods, such as cuttings and budding. Don't forget you can bud onto just about anything if you have too. I'd be finding the rose variety that strikes most easily and then budding onto this. You can treat the understock as nurse roots and bury the graft once it has taken, it will form new roots above the graft and then over time become an own root rose. Hope this helps some Simon When the only tool you own is a hammer, every problem starts looking like a nail... | ||
| Alee Intermediate Member Username: Alee Post Number: 118 Registered: 02-2008 Rating: N/A |
Dao, Are there any chances that both the plants may die because of this. Do you think the open wound of the roots may rot? or the open shoot may cause dehydration? The reason I wanna do it is cause it cost me a fortune to get the plants shipped to Maldives and I have to pay import TAX. I also want to increase the chance of survival of the plant. I know my patio is not the best place for roses. I want to plant the second plant some where much cooler. And even if someone steal the plant in the second location, I still have a plant at home. | ||
| Dmaivn Senior Member Username: Dmaivn Post Number: 2898 Registered: 07-2003 Rating: N/A |
Yes. But I doubt any one would do that. You can do it but I suppose you would want to bury the graft union under the soil level so it does not look bad. This is a normal way to multiply orchids and lots of herbal plants. But it's unusual to do it to hardwood or semi-hardwood plants as it does not produce good plants. | ||
| Alee Intermediate Member Username: Alee Post Number: 117 Registered: 02-2008 Rating: N/A |
Is it possible to make two rose plants out of one bare root rose. I mean to split it into two with a very sharp blade, so that it becomes two separate plants. Do you think it will grow? |
