| Author | Message | ||
     Tasv Member Username: Tasv Post Number: 66 Registered: 08-2008 Rating: N/A |
Thanks guys... I was looking at some surgical skin punches on Ebay... they came in a range of sizes but would be round and the variability in the diametre of both the understocks and the scion material detered me from getting them (they weren't very expensive either), so I've been sticking with the traditional T-graft for now. I have a grafting tool called an omega grafter that cuts the understock and scion to an omega shape so they slot together like a jigsaw... it also does V-grafts and bud grafts. It's not meant for roses (I was playing with fruit trees) and when I tried it on the roses it looked OK but I seemed to cause a lot of tissue tearing so I abandoned the idea of using it with roses. I would imagine holding the small oval/round buds in place would be difficult using this method? I think that's one of the advantages of using the traditional T-graft because they have a tag-end that allows you to tie it in firmly making good contact without covering the bud. I saw someone using a rubber band to hold them in until the rubber band perished and fell away using a 'lark's head' type knot to secure it. When the only tool you own is a hammer, every problem starts looking like a nail... | ||
| Ozeboy Senior Member Username: Ozeboy Post Number: 490 Registered: 03-2007 Rating: N/A |
Grafting looks good Dao, my results were the same. Tasv there are two problems with Dao's idea, the first being the rootstock has to be regular pencil thick or slightly larger and the other is the budwood has to be about the same thickness. Its great for HT's providing the tool is razor sharp and the inside of the punch is parallel to hold the bud. Leather punches are tapered to allow the wads to move upwards and and out. The ideal system is to have 3 different diameter punches to deal with most roses. The rootstock is punched and discarded from the punch and the bud is cut and transferred in the punch to the rootstock where it is pushed in the rootstock with a concave faced spring loaded plunger. Should take about 10 seconds to do the whole job. There's no doubt Dao has come up with a great idea. Due to the fact that it's hard to work different size budwood and rootstock I am now using a knife even though I have 2 different size punches. If you have ever done a lot of budding you realise the budwood comes in all thicknesses and so does the rootstock. When moving down a row of rootstock I select a bud from a piece of cane similar size to the rootstock. Some buds are 2mm wide and some 6mm wide making it impossible to use this system except when everything is very uniform. | ||
| Dmaivn Senior Member Username: Dmaivn Post Number: 2928 Registered: 07-2003  Rating: N/A |
A few successful grafts at various stage of development. I now realise that a firmer tie is required to make sure the rate is nearly 100%. I used a soft rubber band, it lost grip in a hot summer day. It should work better in early spring cool climate.  Tasv, yes it's a like that but you need razor sharp quality. The quality of the graft is just amazing. It improves on not only the time taken for the graft to take but also on the strength. It forms the strongest union out of all methods I know. | ||
| Tasv Member Username: Tasv Post Number: 63 Registered: 08-2008 Rating: N/A |
This oval blade is like a hole punch isn't it. You push it into the scion over the bud and then lift the bud out and do the same to the understock and pop this 'shield' into the resulting 'hole'. Is this right? Are they just modified (flattened) leather punches or something similar? When the only tool you own is a hammer, every problem starts looking like a nail... | ||
| Rosemeadow Senior Member Username: Rosemeadow Post Number: 565 Registered: 01-2008 Rating: N/A |
Looks nice and healthy Dao. I have had a few grafting suceeses, but heaps of dead grafts. Have to wait till my rootstocks are heaps healthier I think. | ||
| Dmaivn Senior Member Username: Dmaivn Post Number: 2913 Registered: 07-2003 Rating: N/A |
This is the graft union created last winter. It has grown and bloomed. The minimal scarring creates the strongest union that looks like a natural lateral from the host. I have just made some more grafts like this at the moment using rubber band to tie. The rubber band material breaks down within 7-10 days depending on the heat late spring. That's a bit quick but I would expect it to last 14-20 days early spring.  |
