| Author | Message | ||
     Dmaivn Senior Member Username: Dmaivn Post Number: 3026 Registered: 07-2003  Rating: N/A |
I don't know how to deal with them apart from carefully pull them off and eliminate them right at the base. They always come back. But if you uncover the soil and remove them completely at the base, it will take longer to see another sucker. Otherwise they keep shooting from the scars like crazy next spring and autumn. Some rootstocks are worse than others. Scarring is the major issue. If you have a scar on a big root or on the trunk under the soil level, viable leaf buds will develop on the scar and it just get worse from that point. Therefore you need to over the soil, recut the area cleanly. Perhaps there is some chemical that could burn and seal it. But I don't know. | ||
| Raman_rrs New member Username: Raman_rrs Post Number: 2 Registered: 07-2009 Rating: N/A |
How to check the suckers from growing on standard roses trunk below the bud union? Any special treatment required to be done on nodes/eyes of stem, since no one in my family is aware of the trouble it can create when I am away from home for weeks on job. | ||
| Tasv Member Username: Tasv Post Number: 89 Registered: 08-2008 Rating: N/A |
Really high temperatures like that are rare down here (though we've been getting a few in the last few days) and I've only ever done T-grafting with good success. I was thinking I might experiment with your oval blade thing and when it came to anchoring the bud I was going to get a bandaide and put it in a hole-punch, knock out a hole, and then wrap the bud in a bandaide (one of the waterproof ones)... I have a feeling the hole would still be too big though it might still be good for larger T-buds even given the bandaide will also still breathe. Like I mentioned T-budding miniatures is really easy and really neat. The scion is much smaller and more narrow so it doesn't peel the T-cut back as much as the larger rose buds do and so they bed down more neatly... and they seem to go in with less bruising and damage. I've got t-budding miniatures down to about 20 seconds (not including tying with clear budding tape... which incidently is also neater with the mini buds) so when people send me miniature cuttings I whip off a few buds and put them onto a multiflora plant stem and then plant the cuttings... to hedge my bets. I just like the look of your patch buds and think they would work well with the cutting experiment I'm trying at the moment too. When the only tool you own is a hammer, every problem starts looking like a nail... | ||
| Dmaivn Senior Member Username: Dmaivn Post Number: 2952 Registered: 07-2003 Rating: N/A |
Tasv, forgot about your question regarding blade size. I have only one medium size about 3mm x 6mm. Miniature roses would need a tiny blade. The tying action will be hard as the scion will be too small. I use a rubber band to tie (to avoid having to remove the tie later). It works fine when temperature is under 30 as it will last for 1.5 weeks. That's just enough for the buds to take. When temperature hit 35-38 with strong Sun light, the rubber band will be destroyed in a few days. When the climate is extreme, I think T budding provide better protection than all other techniques. | ||
| Dmaivn Senior Member Username: Dmaivn Post Number: 2951 Registered: 07-2003 Rating: N/A |
Tasv, T budding produces the most scar tissues. This is especially true in commercial budding when they take a small chip out of the budstick to make it easier. You have a tiny lump of deadwood attached to every scion causing the growth of new tissues surrounding the deadwood. Patch budding requires the use of the "skin" only therefore there is no deadwood in between. The only difference this oval blade makes is the almost perfect match in the patch and the hole allowing healing to happen with no scar tissues as seen. The bottom picture is nothing special. It just show how vigorous the patch has become so new watershoots just break out like that. I have done a lot of budding to conclude those grafts over are the best. Last time I to break a graft, it broke the host stem instead! That's how powerful the graft union became. However the method may not be suitable for commercial production because speed may be slower. It's perfect for home propagation as you only ever do a couple of hundreds at most each year. | ||
| Tasv Member Username: Tasv Post Number: 88 Registered: 08-2008 Rating: N/A |
I was also curious... is that three shoots coming from the one graft in the bottom photo? When the only tool you own is a hammer, every problem starts looking like a nail... | ||
| Tasv Member Username: Tasv Post Number: 87 Registered: 08-2008 Rating: N/A |
They look very nice Dao. Have you tried different sized blades (like smaller ovals) for thinner stocks and smaller buds (I'm thinking miniatures... I actually find T-budding miniatures to be really easy compared to larger roses)? You know what I would like to see... If you had one you could sacrifice could you dissect one of these patch budded roses and a traditional T-budded one down the centre and take a photo of the cross section of each for comparison of the union? I haven't got any spare grafts I can sacrifice at the moment (can go and make a T-budded one tonight but will be a while before it would be ready to dissect) but can make a cross section of a normal bud and photograph it for comparisons sake. When the only tool you own is a hammer, every problem starts looking like a nail... | ||
| Dmaivn Senior Member Username: Dmaivn Post Number: 2950 Registered: 07-2003 Rating: N/A |
Some finest graft unions that provides max strength and best look using bud transfer with an oval blade.      |
